BACKGROUND INFO, LEGAL ASPECTS, CAREFULNESS ETC
(things which are supposed to be understood and not
repeated with each new elsketch project page)
http://www.stamash.com/secs_stamash_educational_centers/elsketch/
OVERVIEW OVER ONLINE AVAILABLE ELSKETCH PROJECTS --
http://www.stamash.com/secs_stamash_educational_centers/elsketch/sitemap/
-- THESE HAVE ALL BEEN CAREFULLY STUDIED IN REAL LIFE,
NOT JUST AS AN EMULATION ON A COMPUTER, AND FOUND TO
WORK AS PROMISED; NOTE THAT SUCH AS AM MW RADIOS IS
-- FOR ANY LONG-RANGE USE -- EXTREMELY TIED UP TO
ALL SORTS OF WEATHER CONDITIONS AND THE EXTENT TO
WHICH IT IS NIGHTTIME
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For the G15 Multiversity: Background works
Also part of the Stamash Educational CenterS, SECS
For general info about G15 Yoga6dorg see also www.norskesites.org/fic3
In general terms, we might use the following
vocabulary: Each Elsketch project constitutes
also a report over successfully completed
electronics development and implementation work,
in a sense a bit of 'neopopperian research',
intended to be replicated in an improvised,
intuitive, playful way by anybody who likes
to educate herself in this way.
This report is dated August 21, 2013. For
general info about copyright confer the spirit
of honoring acknowledgements as found in our
www.yoga4d.org/cfdl.txt.
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Elsketch: Make a Mini AM MW Radio Transmitter
-- Twist a radio inside-out in the fifth dimension (more or less;)
and you've got a transmitter
[note: for ease of composing the materials, frequent mentions
in the Elsketch texts are made of things which belong to the
future -- future Elsketch activities include making even a
whole G15 computer, and parallel activities are also referred
to in the same manner, such as the chemical educational activity
we have named Atomlite. apart from these references to things not
yet done as if they have been done, each elsketch project describes
a project actually carried out to success, and well tested, and
fully doable in the present by following the instructions.]
THE MINI MW RADIO TRANSMITTER
You have made a radio, right? The AM MW radio takes in
all sorts of stations but, alas, not exactly the right
one -- the right one you have to make yourself ;)
Do you want to do this?
************THEN*READ*THIS*FIRST**********************
****WE*PUT*IN*THIS*TEXT*WHETHER*THE*TRANSMITTER*******
****SENDS*A*DOZEN*METERS*OR*THOUSANDS*OF*KILOMETERS***
PROBABLY NOT LEGAL TO DO RADIO TRANMISSION, AT LEAST
IF IT INTERFERES WITH ANYTHING, ANYWHERE.
AND WHATEVER YOU DO ABOUT RADIO TRANSMISSION IS
SOMETHING YOU'RE GOING TO DO BECAUSE YOU HAVE WORKED
OUT WHAT'S LEGAL AND ACCEPTABLE IN YOUR SOCIETY, AND
NOT BECAUSE THERE WAS ANYTHING HERE THAT RECOMMENDED
YOU TO DO IT. ALRIGHT, ALSO WORK OUT WHAT ROOM THERE
MAY BE IN INTERPRETATION OF THESE LAWS (WHAT AMOUNT
OF SECONDS FOR EDUCTIONAL INSPIRATION ONE MIGHT TURN
ON EQUIPMENT THAT CAN SEND TO MORE OR LESS EVERYONE
ON THE PLANET AND SUCH).
======> THIS IS ON YOUR OWN RESPONSIBILITY --
WE HAVE NOT GIVEN ANYTHING BUT OUR DESTILLATION
AND ELEVATION OF PRINCIPLES THAT HAVE BEEN WELL
KNOWN, MORE OR LESS, THROUGHOUT THE TWENTIETH CENTURY
-- ON THE PREMISE OF THE JOY OF SELF-EDUCATION,
AND THE LEARNING OF VARIOUS ASPECTS OF TRANSISTOR
ELECTRONICS. RELATED LEGAL STUFF MENTIONED ON THE
MAIN PAGE OF THE ELSKETCH -- THE OPENING PAGE. DO
CONSULT THIS ALSO. THINK BEFORE YOU ACT.
************READ*THE*ABOVE*FIRST**********************
BEFORE YOU BEGIN, MAKE THE STEEL GRID
First, you make a steel grid as with the 1st radio
module. The steel grid is normally more stable if you
put the steel wires alternatively over and under one
another as you construct it -- with a sense of
'knitting'. Tie up variously colored plastic-isolated
thin steel wires (eg 0.6-0.7mm) of various lengths at
suitable positions intuitively decided.
COMPONENT LIST -- MINI MW RADIO TRANSMITTER
This is a Mini MW Radio transmitter but there is no doubt
that given the right size antenna, the right power amplifier
of audio input, and a good frequency without competition
from anything, it can transmit high quality good sound around
the planet.
GENERAL
*** a very noiseless high-quality power supply giving at least
1.5 A at 12 volt -- note that if you measure with a voltmeter
usually a power supply will, depending on exact design,
give a reading somewhat higher than 12 volt unless put to
much work; that's fine, and it's always part of elsketching
to do things with a room for a variation of many volts --
unless we do it with chips of a sensitive nature
mentally tagged: "power supply"
*** one 1000 mf polarised capacitor handling several
times 12 volt at least (we use this even though
the power supply here is supposed to be high quality
because this is a radio transmitter)
mentally tagged: "big power smoother"
*** one 10 mf polarised capacitor handling several
times 12 volt at least (we use this even though
we've already used a 1000 mf because this is kind'a
standard at power input)
mentally tagged: "small power smoother"
*** one source of music or such, perhaps a computer playing
a recording you like, or microphone-inputted sound where
you can unconnect and reconnect the loadspeakers easily,
to check what you have put on, and get two wires from it
carrying the amplified sound -- preferrably with a volume
control on the amplifier part of this source of music so
that you can fine-tune just how much volt comes out in the
wires. note that not all constructions of amplifiers are
suitable. some amplifier constructions can simply take
the oscillation out of the mini transmitter when we connect
it. the best bet is a rugged big robust music player
open to a variety of connections. it's a necessity that
it has a power amplifier as part of it -- strong enough
that can drive a loudspeaker loudly, not merely make some
little squeeks in a headphone or the like.
"music source"
*** a maybe 3m antenna made of 1mm steel wire (see practical
notes, and notes also as for carefulness when it comes to
any transmissions antennas, in components notes below) --
and be ready to make more than one antenna so we can
check the transmitter from various positions
"antenna"
OSCILLATOR
*** one NPN BC547C 45 volt or more transistor
"oscillator transistor"
*** one 1k modulator
"oscillator power"
*** one AM MW ferrite coil -- it should be the same
as on the AM MW radio you should have beside this
transmitter in order to begin to check how it works
and it can well be one that you have made yourself
"oscillator coil" -- and have an extra chunk of
ferrite for fine-tuning of transmitter by putting it
fairly near but not touching, usually (be sure that
the 1st radio module you have on has the same number
of turns on the same shape ferrite and a similar
enough range of the variable capacitor that you can
get them to connect immediately, as soon as the
transmitter works)
*** one AM MW variable capacitor (e.g., a dozen picofarad
up to ca 200 picofarad) of the type that works with radio,
and it can well be one that you have made yourself
"frequency selector"
*** one 1k modulator
"osc m-pin"
*** one 100k modulator
"osc e-pin"
*** one 560 pf capacitor
"osc output"
HF AMPLITUDE
*** one NPN BC547C 45 volt or more transistor
"amplitude transistor" (again, the radio module
tells of which pin is which)
*** one ca 1730 ohm modulator
(see note below -- three 2.2k in parallel put
in series with 1k gives you exactly it)
"amplitude power"
*** one 50 kohm modulator -- you can twist two
100 kohm modulators together in parallel to get it
"amplitude bridge"
*** one 560 pf capacitor
"amplitude output"
TINNING INSTRUCTIONS -- MINI MW RADIO TRANSMITTER
Standard recommendations: Pls read comments after the
tinning instructions BEFORE tinning. Take extra care
with getting transistors and mf capacitors right.
Switch power on only after looking at the elsketch
very very carefully -- and then keep SAFE distance!
This is your own responsibility. Don't do it if
you're uncertain about the effects of doing this!
Use much light & magnifiers. Regard names of sections
of an elsketch as informal just like item tags. Check
tinnings by pulling a little on them and when in
doubt also check with an ohm-meter before power is on
(after short-circuiting any mf capacitors connected).
Remember that unless otherwise stated you can improvise
freely as to just how you tin something to something
else -- anywhere along a wire already tinned to one of
them you can un-insulated by the tinner, say, -- it's
not that you have to put more than one wire to each
component. Don't overheat transistors and such -- a
brief tinning to a wire, and let each cool before next
tinning. If a twisted pair of modulators (say) seems
not to be tight enough, it's best to tin them also.
POWER
* Get the POWER SUPPLY wires and be sure of which wire
is which, and get them tinned to suitable wires of
different color with some length on the grid. Tin polarised
BIG POWER SMOOTHER capacitor to the incoming wires from
power supply, taking great care to get the polarities
rightly aligned: the plus pole of the power supply to the plus
pole of the capacitor, the E pole of the power supply
("-") to the E pole of the capacitor ("-").
* Tin also the SMALL POWER SMOOTHER carefully in, in
parallel with the big capacitor, plus pole to plus pole,
E pole to E pole.
OSCILLATOR
* Tin the OSCILLATOR COIL to the FREQUENCY SELECTOR,
parallel, that is to say, pin 1 to pin 1 and pin 2
to pin 2, and keep the frequency selector near you
and with room to tune it. Keep in mind also that we're
interested in moving the position of the whole transmitter
so as to check how it works relative to a radio that is
at some distance. This may also mean that you prepare
more than one antenna, as said.
The frequency selector -- the variable capacitor --
is likely to give a little bit different frequency
when the transmitter has warmed up a bit. This in
addition to the natural sense of shifting that sometimes
take place at MW due to the interaction with the
atmosphere, Sun and such.
Put a ferrite chunk near but not touching to the
coil and experiment for the highest quality of
transmission -- angle, distance etc. Let's be clear
that by adding the number of transistors one can
be more selective, reduce noise, etc, and it's just
as rediculous as adding more colors and more resolution
to the computer monitor when it already works. The
minitx -- despite its name -- is a mega transmitter
that rocks your city when you switch it on correctly.
* Tin pin 1 of OSCILLATOR COIL to C-pin of the
OSCILLATOR TRANSISTOR. (For which pin is what pin
of BC547 and such see the 1st radio module.)
* Tin pin 2 of OSCILLATOR COIL to OSC M-PIN modulator,
and the other side of the modulator to M-PIN of the
the OSCILLATOR TRANSISTOR.
* Tin C-PIN of the OSCILLATOR TRANSISTOR to the
OSCILLATOR POWER modulator. Tin the other side of
this modulator to the plus pole (not E pole) of the
POWER SUPPLY. Read about the notion of 'suspending'
a coil-capacitor by using NPN instead of PNP as we do
in this case in the info we gave relative to the radio.
* Tin E-PIN of the OSCILLATOR TRANSISTOR to the E pole
of the POWER SUPPLY.
* Tin E-PIN of the OSCILLATOR TRANSISTOR to OSC E-PIN
modulator, and the other side of this modulator to the
M-PIN of the same transistor. This connection to the
E-pole of the power supply through a big modulator
allows the coil-capacitor circuit to get a little
respite from all the plus volt given to it.
* Tin C-PIN of the OSCILLATOR TRANSISTOR to the
capacitor tagged OSC OUTPUT. Tin the other side of
this capacitor to M-PIN of the AMPLITUDE
TRANSISTOR.
* Tin the C-PIN of OSCILLATOR TRANSISTOR also to the
main wire from the powerful amplifier that has the
music source. Some other positions are possible but
there are various sideeffects of these positions.
For a two-transistor AM MW transmitter, this seems to
be the right position. Tin the other wire, the
ground wire, from the MUSIC SOURCE, to the E pole
of the POWER SUPPLY. It's pretty hard to make the
frequency change unless you target the change of
frequency directly, somehow -- and that suits us fine,
as we despise frequency modulation and the very high
frequencies typically used with it in the late 20th
century idiotic replacement of focus on genuine
stimulating AM -- FM at very high frequencies only
goes as far as one can see, put simply, so why not
shout? -- . We want the amplitude to change and the
frequency to be relatively stable, and that's generally
what happens if we blend the two and the oscillator on
its own is stable enough and this is.
Be sure that you get the volume adjusted first thing
after you have switched it on for the first time --
you will find that any residue buzz in the power supply
of 50 hertz or so will be reduced by utilising much of
the power in your power amplifier used to pump music
into the transistor. It will then be encouraged to
enhance the amplitude of the oscillation alongside
the very much lower frequencies of the audio range;
this is then destilled through the output capacitor
and the amplitude enormously amplified by the next
transistor.
..AND THE AMPLITUDE MODULATION, AM
* Tin the AMPLITUDE TRANSISTOR's C-PIN to the
AMPLITUDE POWER modulator (which like
any modulator can be a combination of several
modulators), and tin the other side of this
modulator to the plus pole of the POWER SUPPLY.
* Tin the AMPLITUDE TRANSISTOR's C-PIN also to
the AMPLITUDE BRIDGE and the other side of the
bridge modulator to the M-PIN of same transistor.
This is a bridge to the activation of this
transistor, since such NPN transistors needs
a little bit positive on the middle to have
anything flow through them. This slight
activation has the output from the oscillator,
and the music source which modifies its amplitude,
added to it, and it all becomes a vast radio
station, one with political effects ;)
* Tin E-PIN of the AMPLITUDE TRANSISTOR to the
E pole of the POWER SUPPLY.
* Tin C-PIN of the AMPLITUDE TRANSISTOR to the
OUTPUT CAPACITOR, and the other side of this
capacitor to a wire that then goes to the ANTENNA
(be sure that you don't strain the capacitor item
by wiring it to the antenna directly -- it should
be tinned to a wired that is neatly tied to the
steel grid, so that it doesn't get the physical
tension of being pulled at when the elsketch is
moved a little bit). Note that we have a
capacitor that's at least twice the size of the
variable capacitor between the submodules in this
elsketch, and also so as to shield the whole
elsketch from some of the volt that might build up
in the antenna.
DONE!
COMPONENT COMMENTS -- READ BEFORE TINNING
AS FOR TRANSISTORS
see the 1st AM MW radio description for C, M, E pins --
mentaly mnemonics for Collector, Middle pin, Emitter pin is
"CoMe Easy!" -- and this is the sequence that the data
work with the elsketch emulator on the PC has, it has
C M E as 1 2 3. Transistors, CoMe Easy!
This is OUR sequence, logically we might say. In practise,
check with each transistor you use what the physical
sequence of the pins are.
AS FOR MUSIC SOURCE
it should be a good quality one, with little noise of
any type in its output, which should come in the form of
two wires, one for ground and one for main audio output.
it must have a smooth volume control so that you can put
it to a little bit -- not too much -- and fine-tune it there.
you should know what it comes with of music, so that when
you try to pick up your transmission, you'll recognise it
at once. it must be of a construction that doesn't suck
the oscillation energy out of the oscillator. if you think
the music source doesn't work with your elsketch try to
transmit nothing at all -- have it unconnected -- and see
if you can get the radio to pick up the buzz of the
sending wave by varying the sender frequency. then if this
sending wave vanishes when you connect the music source or
amplifier, change to another music source or amplifier!
[[[hints for how you might do this in the present
context where many music players have a three or even four
tiny jackplug for output to stereo loadspeaker or headphones,
and optionally also an input for microphone on the same:
first of all, don't assume that a laptop type of PC with
it's sucking little output will work without putting in
some extra components between the computer and the transmitter.
it must be a effect watt power audio amplifier after it.
a much better bet is music player box that has a headphone
outlet of a more general, powerful, robust type. then
get an extra jackplug with headphones inexpensively, that
does work with the amplifier -- or music player -- and
cut the wire so that you have loads of wire after the
jack plug; then carefully without tinner, with tool,
take off the outmost plastic and don't swear too loud
when you see all the microscopic cables within it
with yet more isolation and confusing threads around them;
diligently keep on un-isolating, eg by heating up the
plastic, each one of these; to each candidate you tin
a decent standard little wire, and keep apart from all
the others; then you get the amplifier you used for the
radio or another amplifier and set the computer volume
to a reduced amount. Then -- and this can in some
imaginable cases destroy the sound card or more of the
computer, if you without intending to shortcircuit or
put volt through to the computer -- connect two and
two cables to the amplifier until you get a decent
sound; also try switching the two so that you work out
which one should be called 'ground' and which should
be called 'main'; then tape the others carefully away
with tape over each and then taped into a bundle so
they don't distract and keep on taping until the two
strong wires stand out, and write on the tape the
colors of the tiny wires they connect to in case you
have to do it again -- such tiny cables don't last
forever, especially not when we mess with them --
and which one is ground and which one is main. But
you should apply infinite care if you do this with a
computer you love a lot. Best to do it with a music
player that's inexpensive before you try it with a
computer -- and be sure to know that there are
differences in required ohm for the receptor of these
amplifier outputs and so this transmitter may work
better with some amplifier types than others.
Use equipment here only if you're willing to take the
moderate risk it is that it won't survive the
experiment. When you do it on your own, with your
own equipment, it's all your own responsibility, alright?
in providing educational surroundings, we have of course
tested that the particular combinations we advice do work
out well. However you do it, good luck!]]]
AS FOR MODULATORS
the ca 1730 ohm modulator in the list you can
create -- in order to employ more of the batch
of modulators ('resistors') we used had for the
AM MW radio, namely 1k and 2.2k -- by
twisting three 2.2k together carefully around
in their long steel pins, in parallel -- that's
about 733 ohm, a third of 2200 ohm --
then twisting one side of this to a 1000 ohm
modulator, putting it in series. We say here
twist because tinning is normally the best
approach when two pins meet. If more than two
pins meet, it is, where the length of the pins
allow it without damage to the item, best to
make a spiral out of them so as to fasten them
strongly to one another, and THEN tin the extra
pin to this spiral.
AS FOR ANTENNAS FOR TRANSMITTERS
the ca 3m antenna made of 1mm steel wire or such you e.g.
put horisontally out in the room, if the room has a good
sense of connectivity to the world of the aether, or you
may want to put it sideways up on the wall; it doesn't have
to be straight; make sure this steel wire is strapped to
something near the elsketch work you do, so it doesn't
pull the whole thing with itself if the antenna is moved
a little; and get a normal tiny wire tinned to, don't
connect it directly (check carefully for unintended
consequences of some antennas in some circumstances;
put a high-power-capacity modulator, not volume control
because these are rarely high-power-capacity but will burn
easily, to diminish the quantity of volt if you find you
are transmitting straight into the kitchen zink of your
neighbour or worse, and AGAIN pls do check the laws of your
society and be a responsible social citizen, it's unlikely
you'll find these laws congratulating you on making your
own medium wave AM transmission of love music and your
own nice comments) [but with luck you may obtain a license
and evolve a new station and the ether does need new stations,
not just by mega-big companies, right?]
let's note that antennas for some types of transmitters
in some context do matter a lot more as for their design
than for radios: after all, they are supposed to dispose
of very sizable chunks of electromagetic waves to the
ether, not merely to read tiny vibrations off it.
so the more HF watt is put to the antenna, the more such
questions as these may arise: is the antenna actually
shaped so that it throws the waves out in a meaningful
direction? is possibly the antenna shaped so that it
builds up a self-feeding resonance, keeping the waves
in place -- socalled 'standing waves' -- instead of
letting them escape into the air? -- if the latter
takes place, will it be a build-up of electricity that
might feed back into the radio transmitter? so, a
20th century tradition called 'radio amateurs' taught
each other a lot of techniques and made tons of
formulas for how to make the most out of the petty
licenses they had been given by the authorities so
as to establish some communication in the dreadfully
noncommunicative societies within which they existed.
however the present design of the present AM MW
transmitter should work just fine also for you regarding
the things we mentioned -- because it is, though there
are few components, cleverly made. [again, please
regard this as educational; we're all strictly
law-abiding here, right? ;) meaning that if it works
really well, you'd better not use it at all, after
having established that. good to get that said! ;)
at any rate, for the nth time: we give this in an
idealistic spirit, wishing not to disrupt society
but to further private education and enthusiasm for
real understanding of also electronics reality.
you're in touch with real power here. the power
mustn't corrupt you. 'kay?]
what we said about standing waves is however no
joke: during transmission, you should be aware not
to be too certain that you know the voltages involved.
if you have a robust analog voltmeter -- especially
one that can be used on FC, frequency current, with
a diod or such -- check how things are before touching
anything; and be ready to switch anything off if it
starts smelling or looking like something is burning.
for this reason, you should have a fresh look as to
whether you have adequate fire safety in the lab where
you do the elsketch work. do you have some nonflammable
type of cloth that you can use to quench flames with?
do you have a bottle of water? do you have a small
woolen cloth ready in your pocket which is help
for your fingers if you have to rip a burning bit
out of something so the bit doesn't enflame other
things? does your body have enough clothes on of a
kind that doesn't go up in flames if they get a
glowing this or other near them? and is the room
in general in a house that has adequate fire safety
as a whole? and do you have a mindfulness about these
things, so that you don't get into a shock but keep
cool and act rightly if there's an issue, even if
fire alarms start shrieking like wild? keeping cool
in a crises is much more easy if you do a meditation
on your preparedness for the extreme possibilities,
not just affirming that all will go well but ALSO
affirming that all will go well, after such
meditations or premeditations.
[[[Mountable data app for input to elsketch emulator
in G15 comes as a link to a .zip here:]]]
YOU HAVE TINNED IT -- NOW GET IT UP!!!!!
Put on music source -- listen to it first, and
adjust it so that it is pleasant and clear but
not too high, then let it go into the elsketch
instead of into loudspeaker. It must be a
well-shielded, powerful amplifier -- not everyone
may have the right 'impedance' or ohm-requirement
at its output, and some may have polarities
reversed, and such, so you may have to try one,
two, three amplifier before you get it, and maybe
put in a ca 500 nf or higher capacitor to as a
shield between the transmitter and the amplifier.
Experiment with volume control -- which, for
least noise and most endurance of control,, in
general, should have steps and not be a slider
control -- as for what gives best radio reception
at a distance.
Put on your elsketch radio, and adjust it to
maybe about the middle of the most functional
range of the variable capacitor (if it is the
type that is made by sliding two metal sheaves,
that means that it is probably slid off somewhat
more than half the way to fully slid off, if
you know what I mean). Adjust it so that it
isn't tuned into any station but only receives
the kind of noise associated with there being
a space on the MW band right there for now.
Put on the power to the elsketch transmitter,
with due care if it is the first time -- check
that nothing goes up in smoke etc; and of course
you have checked that all tinnings are intact and
no component has suspiciously few wires to it and
such; and also there is no shortcircuiting.
Adjust the frequency selector of the transmitter
until the radio receives. If no match, try adjust
the variable capacitors a little one way, then
another way. If still no match, turn off the power
and go over the wiring carefully, check the
polarities. Be ready to use a voltmeter to check
volt here and there. Turn up the volume a little.
And so on.
When -- yes, WHEN -- you do receive, fine-tune
the volume, then fine-tune the ferrite chunk
position that should lie beside, not touching,
the coil of the transmitter. When you have
satisfactory reception at an empty place at MW,
get on the conventional radio and find it there.
Then go a dozen meter away and see if you can
get a signal.
The art of correcting an elsketch has many
similarities to the art of correcting a G15
program. Volumes could be written about it.
It's great therefore to work with someone who
is experienced.
EDUCATIONAL COMMENT ABOUT OTHER THINGS
Let's note that if you're just beginning out on
reading about electronics elsketch modules, and have
looked into such as radio and then this transmitter,
the pathway to a real full G15 computer is a long
pathway, but the direction is right.
Now let's just consider the amount of cycles pr
second that the oscillator in the transmitter (and
radio) is generating. It's e.g. 900.000 cycles pr
second (just to take a number -- it can be also
1.400.000 and it's still called MW).
Nine hundred thousand. Okay, now imagine that by
each of these cycles, we activated a bunch of
transistors, capacitors and modulators so that,
what with one thing and another, something of a
G15 program instruction got performed by them --
over a vast grid of stuff that can store electrical
impulses, maybe capacitors (ferrite-like stuff can
be used esp. when speed is not that important, such
as with more permanent storage like disks), and that
acts like RAM, the computer memory. By turning the
capacitor to a higher frequency you would be able
to, so to speak, push the gas pedal of the computer
so as to drive it faster!
We're talking the very same type of cycles which
are required to drive the G15 CPU (whether we call
it 'chip' or not -- it would have to be composed of
many many thousand of modules). A cycle could maybe
activate another series of small cycles so that the
G15 instruction number is first fetched from RAM,
the instruction address (NINS, Next INStruction
adddress) is updated, the number is worked out as
to what it matches, the operation is done -- over
such-and-such many tiny cycles.
Best of lucks!
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BACKGROUND INFO, LEGAL ASPECTS, CAREFULNESS ETC
(things which are supposed to be understood and not
repeated with each new elsketch project page)
http://www.stamash.com/secs_stamash_educational_centers/elsketch/
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